A menswear buying information – 2024 replace – Everlasting Type


 

Quite a bit has modified within the 5 years since we final up to date this Paris buying information (and sure, I do know simply as a lot as modified elsewhere – we may also replace the others!). 

Kenjiro Suzuki has left, the Viaduc des Arts has drifted, and the experiment that was the sixteenth Arrondissement menswear has ended. Vacation has closed, Beige has moved and Le Vif is within the strategy of looking for a brand new house. It was nice whereas it lasted, however Beige particularly seems to be very at dwelling in its quiet Left Financial institution location. 

It’s not all unhealthy both – Husbands has expanded, opening its second store in St Germain not too removed from Beige, and Tremendous Sew, which we initially met within the basement of Vacation, now has its personal correct store. 

It’s good, as a result of prior to now 30 years Paris has typically appeared to endure greater than different worldwide cities, with a number of large retailers like Previous England and Arnys closing whilst London managed to carry onto most of its conventional outfitters on the again of tourism. 

Paris has some actual gems, some previous and a few new. Beneath are 31 we suggest, along with specific explanations why. They’re roughly organized into comparable teams, although outright categorisation proved past us.

As ever, be at liberty so as to add your individual options within the feedback beneath. There are all the time extra on the market. 

 


1 Beige Habilleur
www.beige-habilleur.com, 86 Rue Bonaparte

Beige Habilleur is without doubt one of the greatest multibrand shops anyplace. The way in which I decide that’s {that a} multibrand retailer ought to have a transparent identification – a transparent view on the world – even because it shares garments made by others. The purchase, the collaborations, the styling ought to all converse to that identification and make you wish to go to to expertise it, reasonably than simply as a result of it’s your native stockist of a selected model. 

Beige additionally has the sensation of a bit neighbourhood store – maybe like some in Marylebone in London. The manufacturers carried embody Justo Gimeno teba jackets, Smedley polos, Jamieson’s knits and Quoddy or Paraboot footwear. All of them add as much as a relaxed however elegant view on fashionable city clothes. 

2 Anatomica
anatomica.fr, 14 Rue du Bourg Tibourg

I discussed Anatomica in the Tokyo buying information lately, and the French department has an analogous aesthetic, mixing its personal workwear-inspired designs with exterior manufacturers. 

There’s extra emphasis right here on the footwear although, and Alden fashions on their ‘modified’ final. This extensive final has turn out to be related to Anatomica over time, and is particularly designed for essentially the most comfy match. Warning: your present shoe measurement shall be no form of information right here.

Match is a basic obsession of director Pierre Fournier and designer Tenji Keramoto, and the clothes has an analogous best of ‘correct’ match that allows motion, whether or not it’s a close-fitting waistcoat or a unfastened coat.

Learn the devoted article on Anatomica right here.

3 Husbands
www.husbands-paris.com, 57 Rue de Richelieu and 1 Rue de l’Abbaye

Husbands has a glance. That’s fairly apparent once you meet Nicolas Gabard, the proprietor. Nicolas’s mission is to make tailoring horny. To point out how a love of fits doesn’t need to preclude cowboy shirts or black boots. To display the drama of an old school Aquascutum raincoat, tightly belted, collar up. 

And but there are parts of the fashion that everybody will discover interesting – whether or not it’s the cavalry-twill used for the navy blazers, which is achingly sharp; the proportions of a camel wrap coat; or fisherman’s sweaters with buttons on the shoulder seam which might be really designed for use. An antidote to anybody tired of standard tailoring.

Learn the devoted article on Husbands right here.

4 Jean-Manuel Moreau
@jeanmanuelmoreau, 3 Rue Chambiges

Jean-Manuel Moreau gives made-to-measure shirts and Neapolitan tailoring, plus a scattering of equipment and footwear. The tailoring is made by Orazio Luciano, however to Jean-Manuel’s block – which has a barely wider, rounder lapel, extra open foreparts and decrease buttoning level. And the shirts are by Mazzarelli. You may see my assessment of the tailoring right here.

Apparently, Moreau is the one store in Paris providing Neapolitan tailoring at this stage, which makes him a vacation spot for businessmen regularly shifting away from the stiff fits into extra informal fits and separates. Importantly, Jean-Manuel additionally makes use of a neighborhood Parisian tailor for alterations and changes – which makes the providing each extra dependable and speedier. 

See the devoted article on Jean-Manuel right here.

 

 

5 Cinabre
www.cinabre-paris.com, 14 Cité Bergère

Cinabre is greatest often known as a maker of ties and handkerchiefs. They’ve their very own atelier in France making them, and provide the French President, Emmanuel Macron. However prior to now yr they’ve expanded into a brand new, greater store and added two lodge suites within the higher flooring. 

The result’s stunning, and extra an idea than a retail store. You enter by means of a tent, the check-in is contained in the boutique. The rooms upstairs are full of lovely materials that menswear followers will respect, usually made in collaboration with French heritage producers. 

The vary of clothes, in the meantime, is increasing into dressing robes, dinner jackets and shirts. Usually fairly idiosyncratic, however all the time pretty and almost all the time made in France. 

6 Charvet
www.charvet.com, 28 Place Vendôme

Fairly merely one of the stunning menswear retailers on this planet. A beautiful floor flooring stacked with equipment, and higher flooring of shirtings and bespoke tailoring. There are only a few single-brand, single-location retailers left of this sort on this planet. 

A lot of the fashion is to not my style, however the shirts are stunning and every thing exquisitely made. (There are additionally different shirtmakers if you happen to’re wanting additional afield, notably Lucca and Courtot.)

Learn my expertise of getting a bespoke Charvet shirt made here and an interview with Jean-Claude Colban right here

7 Mes Chaussettes Rouges
www.meschaussettesrouges.com, 9 Rue César Franck

Mes Chaussettes Rouges has expanded significantly in the previous couple of years, going from a web based operation to a correct store, after which making its personal bespoke socks onsite. They’re nonetheless top-of-the-line suppliers of wonderful gown socks in Europe, and if you happen to like your socks, the store is a superb place to go to. 

See the devoted article on MCR right here.

8 Chato Lufsen

chatolufsen.store, 41 Rue de Verneuil

Christophe of Chato Lufsen is a classic collector of Arnys particularly, but additionally Hermes and different luxurious manufacturers. In recent times nevertheless, he has turn out to be higher identified for his variations of previous Arnys designs, such because the Bores. These usually reinterpret the previous slouchy mandarin-collar jacket into one thing extra fashionable, whereas nonetheless being tremendous relaxed and comfy. 

Learn the devoted article on Chato Lufsen right here, Tony’s assessment of his jacket right here and my assessment of mine right here

 

 

9 Jinji
jinji.fr, 22 Rue des Canettes

Jinji is an effective location for workwear followers, with lots of the acquainted Japanese names like The Actual McCoy’s, Full Rely and Warehouse stocked right here. However there are additionally some extra fashion-led makers like Kapital, some British requirements like Sunspel, and a scattering of merchandise made below the Jinji identify, that are perennially fascinating. 

Basically, Jinji has sufficient of its personal view on issues to be price a go to even if you happen to’re already accustomed to lots of these Japanese manufacturers. My private favorite is a jacket they made out of an previous Navajo blanket, which I purchased and repaired, and lined right here

10 Tremendous Sew
superstitchmfg.com, 13 Rue Racine

We first noticed Tremendous Sew once they had been within the basement beneath Vacation, largely doing repairs and alterations on denims. They now have their very own retailer in St Germain, providing their very own line of denims, denim shirts and denim jackets – in addition to the repairs and alterations. The make is completely excellent, the work of a denim obsessive. 

11 Brut (and Le Vif)
brut-clothing.com, 3 Rue Réaumur
@le.vif.boutique

Le Vif was one in all my favorite classic shops on this planet, so hopefully it should discover a everlasting retailer location quickly, having closed the house within the sixteenth arrondissement. 

Paris typically is nice on classic and second-hand clothes, actually in comparison with London, and the flea markets are all the time price diving into. A very good store was Brut Clothes, although they’ve advanced prior to now few years and do various their very own clothes now, usually utilizing deadstock clothes or materials. Price a search for each.

See the devoted article on Brut right here

12 Harpo
www.harpo-paris.com, 19 Rue de Turbigo

Harpo isn’t that well-known within the menswear house, but it surely ticks lots of the packing containers for a Everlasting Type reader: craft, authenticity, a basic fashion, and household owned. 

It sells jewelry and different crafts made by Native People such because the Navajo, Hopi and Zuni. It’s been there since 1971, based by Gerard ‘Harpo’ Nadaud, and run at the moment by him and his three daughters: Dorothée, Valentine and Ella. If this type of jewelry is your fashion, you received’t discover anyplace higher exterior the US.

See devoted article on Harpo right here

 

 

13 Maison Bonnet and Ingenieur Chevallier
www.maisonbonnet.com, 5 Rue des Petits Champs
ingenieurchevallier.com, 17 Rue des Pyramides and 16 Rue du Vertbois

Bonnet is without doubt one of the most interesting makers of eyewear on this planet, solely doing bespoke and on the highest stage. They’re notably identified for his or her inventory of tortoiseshell, however the worth actually is within the tight, enthusiastic workforce and the talent of design and becoming. Stunning frames, pretty individuals. 

Bonnet additionally lately purchased an previous, storied Parisian maker known as Ingenieur Chevallier and turned it into an idea between ready-made and bespoke glasses. There are designs by the Bonnet workforce but additionally from different manufacturers, and so they can all be ordered in several sizes, earlier than being comprehensively tailored to the face – with information, pliers, no matter is required. An actual step above most fashionable ready-made eyewear.

14 Hosoi
www.hosoiparis.com, 37 bis, Rue de Montreuil

Satoru Hosoi is an Hermes-trained leather-based craftsman working within the Cour de l’industrie: a set of courtyards within the Faubourg Saint Antoine district that homes round 50 completely different artisans. His work is completely beautiful, with no nook reduce together with (very unusually) making all his personal {hardware}. 

As detailed within the devoted article we did on Hosoi right here, his designs are the issues that may appeal to individuals particularly, and are price a go to to see alone. He additionally does trunk reveals in his native Japan.

15 Cifonelli and Camps de Luca
www.cifonelli.com, 31 Rue Marbeuf
campsdeluca.com, 16 Rue de la Paix

Paris has a small however excellent bespoke tailoring scene. One of the best-known homes are Cifonelli (now clearly the most important), Camps de Luca (which lately moved) and Smalto (additionally has a reasonably gaudy RTW line). I like to recommend the primary two most extremely. 

Cifonelli additionally lately moved into a big house for its ready-to-wear clothes. The fashion is a bit luxe for me, however the high quality is constantly excessive and value a glance if that’s your fashion.

 

 

16 Berluti bespoke
www.berluti.com, 9 Rue du Faubourg St Honoré

The Berluti empire is under no circumstances distinctive to Paris. However it’s the place the bespoke tailoring and shoemaking are positioned, with the previous a takeover of the previous Arnys workshop, and the shoemaking expanded with a number of finely chosen names. If both appeals, then, Paris is the place to go for consultations and fittings. (And attempt to overlook the unhappy demise of Arnys itself, which could nicely have been high of this listing had it nonetheless existed.)

17 Corthay, Aubercy, John Lobb
www.corthay.com, 1 Rue Volney
www.dimitribottier.com, 14 Rue Chauveau-Lagarde
www.aubercy.com, 34 Rue Vivienne
www.johnlobb.com, 21 Rue Boissy d’Anglas

Paris has a robust contingent of shoemakers, though largely a part of greater homes. There’s Berluti, there’s John Lobb Paris (a part of Hermes) and there’s Massaro (a part of Chanel). The 2 most extremely really useful nevertheless are Corthay, which has a big RTW line however nonetheless does bespoke, and Aubercy, which has a smaller one. 

18 Philippe Atienza, Serge Amoruso and Samuel Gassman
www.philippeatienzabottier.com, 53 Avenue Daumesnil
@serge_amoruso, 37 Avenue Daumesnil
samuelgassmann.com, 1 rue Charlemagne

There was a beautiful little grouping of those makers on Avenue Daumesnil, in what was known as the Viaduc des Arts. Most are nonetheless there, however Samuel Gassman has moved and is planning to maneuver once more in October 2024. Philippe has moved his workshop to Provence however nonetheless does appointments in the identical location. And Michel Heurtault has additionally moved to the countryside however does appointments are Maison Fayet (see beneath).

Philippe Atienza is a bespoke shoemaker who additionally has a ready-made line made to the identical high quality stage as bespoke. The store is price a go to for his assortment of classic shoemaking equipment alone. 

A bit of additional down the road is leather-based specialist Serge Amoruso, who makes eclectic designs of wallets, baggage and holders for every thing from golf golf equipment to guitars. He’s notably identified for robust colors and unique leathers. 

Lastly, Samuel Gassman who hand makes cufflinks and jewelry. Quirky and authentic, Samuel’s work is carried by a number of retailers (like Cinabre) and malls

See devoted articles right here: Atienza, Amoruso


19
 Galerie Fayet
www.galerie-fayet.com, 34 Passage Jouffroy

Michel Heurtault makes maybe the best umbrellas on this planet, largely bespoke and largely girls’s, however with pretty males’s examples too. He used to have a workshop within the Viaduc des Arts however is now primarily based within the countryside. Happily, he now sells by means of Galerie Fayet and makes appointments there. Fayet additionally gives a stupendous vary of canes and strolling sticks.

See devoted article on Michel Heurtault right here

 

 

20 Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers
lafayette-saltiel.com, 11 Rue d’Uzès

Material agent Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers has turn out to be well-known for its inventory of classic fabric (just below 20,000 metres). They’re the agent for many English and Italian mills in France, and have been for a few years. In that point they’ve constructed up this classic assortment – largely as a result of, given their large workplace, they merely have room to.

Virgil and Pierre are enthusiastic and educated, and I like to recommend stopping by. Though this stays a really small a part of their enterprise, they love speaking about and displaying off their classic fabric.

 

21 Chapal and Seraphin
chapal.fr, 244 Rue de Rivoli
www.seraphin-france.com, 57 Quai de Valmy

Paris boasts two of the perfect makers of leather-based jackets on this planet. Chapal is an previous identify that was made well-known for flying jackets (supplying each French and US airforces) and nonetheless has its personal tannery. Ignore the denims, T-shirts and goggles and give attention to the authentically detailed USAAF and A2 fashions. 

Seraphin is a extra common luxurious model, however making all of the leather-based itself in Paris in addition to supplying a number of designers. They’re probably not open to the general public, however generally they’ll permit guests on request.

See devoted articles right here: Chapal, Seraphin

 

22 Camille Fournet and Lavabre Cadet
www.camillefournet.com, 5 Rue Cambon
lavabrecadet.com, 5 Rue Cambon

Camille Fournet makes nice leather-based watch straps – one thing Paris has a surfeit of, with Jean Rousseau and Atelier du Bracelet Parisien amongst others. Fournet has additionally taken over working the glovemaker Lavabre Cadet, and each at the moment are within the store on Rue Cambon.

See devoted article on Lavabre Cadet right here

23 Hermes
www.hermes.com, 24 Rue du Faubourg St Honoré

Hermes, in fact, is in most giant cities on this planet. However the flagship at 24 Rue du Faubourg St Honoré deserves a pilgrimage – reasonably just like the Rhinelander Mansion in New York, or Armani in Milan. A towering temple to the leather-based and silk skilled, and given how small the runs are of some items, there’ll all the time be one thing you haven’t seen elsewhere.

Others:

L’Officine – Multibrand retailer promoting largely Neapolitan RTW. Avino, Sannino, Rifugio, Scafora and so forth

Daniel Levy  – Bespoke shirtmaker. Comes really useful however I haven’t been in a position to see and/or strive

Vieux Campeur / Younger Hiker – The primary is a Parisian establishment for outside clothes, with retailers throughout a number of blocks. The second is a classy upstart taking part in off the identify, within the Palais Royale gardens. Each have their very own attraction

Artumes & Co – Nation-driven model by the ex-Arnys designer Dominique Lelys

Berteil – Maybe greatest considered the French Cordings, fairly an establishment however very conventional and never the best high quality

Maison Gabriel – Unstructured tailoring, ready-made and made-to-measure, plus sartorial equipment

And flagships….
This information is extra about clothes, but it surely’s price mentioning that Paris additionally has the flagships of many top-end fragrance and baggage manufacturers, similar to Caron, Goyard and others. Oh and I all the time go into 45R, however that’s simply because there isn’t a outlet in London.

 



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