Our seasonal abstract of issues I’ve seen and preferred rolls round once more, and as ever is an efficient mechanism to reply questions on new merchandise from established manufacturers, such because the Metropolis Moc from Saman Amel (above).
But it surely’s additionally, by design, a mixture of the previous and the brand new, so there are each the anticipated names of Rubato and Drake’s, in addition to the less-discussed Buck Mason or Novesta.
I hope you discover one thing for you. All questions within the feedback please, to be fortunately and completely answered.
Buck Mason Rambler suede jacket
$698
My dimension: Giant (dimension up)
I met the Buck Mason guys at Pitti final January, and Lucas and I each tried a number of merchandise. I’ve to say we had been each impressed by the worth/high quality ratio. This isn’t a Japanese model making the best copy high quality, however it’s additionally half the worth and most issues had been properly carried out.
I used to be notably impressed by the suede ‘Rambler’ trucker jacket. As I commented in the piece on Massimo Dutti, leather-based and suede are usually not a simple factor to do at a cheaper price, and I even have an unique ‘massive E’ Levi’s one, so might evaluate first hand.
You positively lose one thing by not going for these top-end Japanese manufacturers, but when that’s out of your worth vary Buck Mason are a superb choice, and evaluate very favourably with somebody like RRL.
Rubato Roper shirt
£305
My dimension: Medium (regular dimension)
Staying with the Americana theme, just a few readers requested about this new mannequin from Rubato – their model of a western shirt, in black, white and indigo. I attempted the black, and it’s precisely what you count on from Rubato – nice high quality with refined fashion.
The benchmark for a lot of might be the Sawtooth Westerner from Bryceland’s, which I even have, and that is lighter in weight, in addition to dialling down a few of the western parts – one snap on the pockets, two on the cuff. I’d say it’s a fantastic alternative for anybody that finds the heavier Sawtooth somewhat an excessive amount of. My black can be fading properly after a few washes.
Novesta Marathon trainers
My dimension: 44 (dimension up)
My favorite trainers have lengthy been a collaboration between Mizuno and Margaret Howell, and readers usually ask what else I’d suggest, as these are solely in black or white and never at all times obtainable.
The Marathon from Novesta is an efficient one – slim, refined and properly made. Trunk had them beforehand in bolder colors, however the present gray and beige are extra versatile and I ended up getting the beige. It’s a fantastic color mixture, notably the black across the edges.
Not all sizes are at present obtainable at Trunk, however there are many different colors and sizes obtainable on the Novesta website and thru locations like Finish.
New & Lingwood band-collar shirt
£155
My dimension: Medium (regular dimension)
I’ve been actually interested by how New & Lingwood have advanced over the previous couple of years. They’re doing extra tailoring, extra subtle supplies, and extra traditional menswear, maybe within the course of filling a few of the hole left by manufacturers like Drake’s going extra informal. It is simple to overlook, for instance, that till just lately they solely did silk robes, however now supply cashmere, linen seersucker; the tailoring has expanded in the identical means.
Over the winter I picked up a raglan coat from them in a extremely sturdy however tasteful examine, for instance, which is the form of factor you hardly ever see anyplace else lately – conventional outfitters do not have the identical style degree and trendy ones are too smooth and secure.
The present New & Lingwood assortment has some good linen fits – in simply the best shade of darkish brown or darkish inexperienced – wearable colors of towelling shirts, and nice linen shirts. I’ve been after a linen band-collar one for some time, in addition to a plain spread-collar silk, and so they had each.
Drake’s cotton-twill Video games Blazer
£795
My dimension: 40 (regular dimension)
Talking of Drake’s, they just lately restocked the Video games Blazer within the cottons I missed out on final yr, once I bought my corduroy. Each the cotton twill and canvas are beautiful, mechanically cleanable and certainly fading properly when washed.
I get a number of questions from readers about the place they’ll get a less expensive model of the Video games Blazer, and also you simply can’t, except you go for a bog-standard chore coat. What units the Video games aside is design and sometimes supplies, and that’s one thing most different manufacturers don’t put right into a chore. The supplies are the identical ones from the identical bunches, and the design is simply straight up-and-down.
The Drake’s is unquestionably costly, however to my thoughts design-led manufacturers like this justify their worth once they set themselves aside in these two areas.
Saman Amel Metropolis Moc (and Quoddy/Beige)
€600
My dimension: 43 (regular dimension) within the Saman and 10 US (dimension up) within the Quoddy
I noticed these on the current Saman Amel trunk present, simply earlier than they had been as a consequence of go on sale, and was fairly excited. There’s an actual hole there – a shoe that’s nearly as snug as a coach, however nearly as sensible as a idler, and naturally fashionable.
They appeared actually good on Dag and Dom with their fits and I preferred the smooth, elevated design. They didn’t work on me in the identical means (with tailoring) I believe as a result of each of the blokes like their trousers huge and the sneakers appeared nice simply poking out of their hems. However as a shoe to put on with one thing extra sensible/informal or informal/stylish – like sensible chinos and a cashmere knit – I believe they’d be nice. It is one thing I will attempt once more when the brand new showroom opens (on Albemarle Road) in June.
I additionally just lately tried the boat sneakers that Beige in Paris is doing as a collaboration with Quoddy. These are chunkier and never as luxe, however as with Saman the black choice is actually fascinating – it takes away all potential old-mannish associations. The Beige guys have additionally made some refined however efficient decisions, equivalent to placing silver {hardware} on the black leather-based, moderately than gold, and white stitching moderately than yellow.
Silver Ostrich ostrich-leather belt
€440
My dimension: 90 (regular dimension)
I’ve by no means truly written about Silver Ostrich, though I’ve had their belts for some time. Many of the types are somewhat a lot for me, and my brown-suede ‘Versailles’ (under) is one thing I put on solely once I need a specific look (and 20 occasions lower than my Rubato in the identical materials).
However my current, nice discovery was that the brown ostrich-leather (above) is definitely simpler to put on than plain suede, and ages very properly. The sample is kind of refined and assorted, but in addition not the usual suede, leather-based or croc. I’ve it in the Amboise fashion and now put on it moderately greater than my suede, principally with denims. Sadly the actual fact it’s an unique makes it a degree costlier.
